Google Finance – Tracking a Portfolio with Mutual Funds

Google Finance offers a simple way to track a portfolio. You can use a Google spreadsheet and have all of the features of a spreadsheet (to track % of portfolio, % gains, etc.) and also insert a bit of code to get current values of securities.

There are simple tutorials for doing this for stocks.

You need to first put the exchange (NYSE, NASDAQ, etc.) and then the symbol. So NASDAQ:AAPL for example. The complete code to use to retrieve the prices is

=GoogleFinance("nasdaq:aapl")

If you don’t know the exchange it trades on just put it in Google Finance and it will show you the code to use. Directly below the security name it will list the [exchange]: [symbol].

view of apple quote screen

You can also use this to find the code to use for mutual funds. So for example searching for Vanguard Health Care Fund Investor Shares will return

Vanguard Health Care Fund Investor Shares  - image of syntax for Google Finance

So you would use

=GoogleFinance("MUTF:VGHCX")

And for the Fidelity MSCI Health Care Index

=GoogleFinance("NYSEARCA:FHLC")

The spreadsheet is an easy way to collect items held at several brokers and to do real time calculations based on current stock prices. One reason I have several brokers is that provides some security from technical failures on their part (their webs sites, applications… being down). Also different brokers can do certain things a bit better than others (pre market trading etc.).

I hope this is helpful to some people. Good luck with your investing.

Related: Use FI/RE to Create a Better Life Not To Build a Nest Egg as Quickly as PossibleRetirement Portfolio Allocation for 2020Investment Risk Matters Most as Part of a Portfolio, Rather than in IsolationRetirement Planning: Looking at Assets

Free Credit Freeze

Thanks to a new federal law in the USA, you can now get free credit freezes and year-long fraud alerts.

After delaying for many years finally the government has allowed consumers to freeze their credit via the large credit agencies. Millions of people a year have been victimized by the failure to regulate credit in the USA sensibly. The new rules are a long overdue improvement though they don’t go nearly far enough in protecting people’s private information from being collected and abused.

The new law has a long name – Economic Growth, Regulatory Relief, and Consumer Protection Act. Equifax, Experian and TransUnion have each been required to set up a webpage for requesting fraud alerts and credit freezes. The FTC frequently asked questions about credit freezes, with links to allow you to make your credit data more secure by initiating a credit freeze.

photo of the Capital building in Washington DC

photo of the US Capital in Washington DC by John Hunter.

Free credit freezes

A credit freeze restricts access to your credit file, making it harder for identity thieves to open new accounts in your name. Usually you get a PIN to use each time you want to freeze and unfreeze your account to apply for new credit.

What’s new? Currently, credit freezes may involve fees, based on state law. Now it will be free to freeze and unfreeze your credit file throughout the country.

Don’t forget to freeze credit files on your kids as the credit agencies have been collecting this information which has then been used by criminals to commit fraud.

Related: Protecting Your Privacy and Financial SecurityProtect Yourself from Credit Card FraudImprovements to Credit Collection Requirements Have Had a Positive ImpactTruly Free Credit ReportThe Continued Failure of the USA Health Care System and Our PoliticiansMaking Credit Cards More Secure and Useful (2014)

USA Retirement Savings Contributions Tax Credit

The USA offers a retirement savings contributions credit for those earning $63,000 or less in 2018 (in 2017 the maximum earning were $62,000). The retirement savings tax credit is not as widely know as it should be.

The income level is based on Adjusted Gross Income (AGI). So some deductions from your gross income are allowed; earnings would reduced for contributions to a Healthcare Savings Account or traditional IRA to calculate the AGI). It is also reduced by the deductible for the self employment (social security tax) and for investment losses (up to a maximum of $3,000). The AGI is the value on the bottom of the first page of the 1040.

The Credit can be taken for contributions to a traditional or Roth IRA; your 401(k), SIMPLE IRA, SARSEP, 403(b), 501(c)(18) or governmental 457(b) plan; and your voluntary after-tax employee contributions to your qualified retirement and 403(b) plans.

The amount of the credit is 50%, 20% or 10% of your retirement contributions up to $2,000 ($4,000 if married filing jointly). Learn more on the IRS website.

Chart of Retirement Savings Contributions Credit (2018)

From the IRS website.

Related: IRAs and 401(k)s are a Great Way to Save for RetirementFinancial Independence Retire Early (FIRE) and Location Independent WorkingSave What You Can, Increase Savings as You Can Do SoUsing Annuities as Part of a Retirement Plan401(k) Options, Seek Low Expenses

ACA Healthcare Subsidy – Why Earning $100 More Could Cost You $5,000 or More

The USA healthcare system is a mess. This mess has been created by those we have elected for decades. It isn’t a short term problem, simple problem or small problem. Healthcare costs are a huge burden on the USA economy and the financial costs and extreme burdens (worry, fighting with insurance companies, forgoing needed healthcare…) are huge burdens on all those stuck with the system that is in place.

Update 2021: in 2021 the Biden administration updated the law so that this extreme drop-off no longer occurs. Now it is a much more sensible gradual reduction in the subsidy as you earn more money. The previous subsidy rules, discussed in this post, may return in 2023 (the current changes to the more sensible subsidy amounts only cover 2021 and 2022).

One of the benefits of the Affordable Healthcare Act (ACA) is that health insurance costs are subsidized for those earning less than 400% of poverty level income. The way that this has been designed you could get $5,000 (or more, or less) in subsidies if you earn just below the 400% level and $0 if you earn just above. Most such income limits are phased in so that there is nothing like the huge faced by those earning just a few more dollars.

If you are close to the 400% poverty level income and are paying for an ACA healthcare plan (self employed, retired, entrepreneur…) then it is wise to pay close attention to what your reported income will be.

Here are several examples, using the Kasier Family Foundations’s subsidy tool:

  • 60 year old in Virginia earning $48,200 would receive $7,073 in subsidies (60% of the cost*). Earning $48,300 would mean receiving $0 in subsidies (for this and also examples, the examples shown are for a single individual, you can use the tool to try different scenarios).
  • 60 year old in Virginia earning $38,000 would receive $8,029 in subsidies (69% of the cost).
  • 34 year old in Virginia earning $48,200 would receive $608 in subsidies (12% of the cost).
  • 50 year old in California earning $48,200 would receive $4,255 in subsidies (48% of the cost).
  • 34 year old in North Carolina earning $48,200 would receive $1,636 in subsidies (26% of the cost).
  • 64 year old in Virginia earning $48,200 would receive $8,283 in subsidies (64% of the cost*).
  • Family of 4 (ages 46, 42, 12 and 10) earning $40,000 in Colorado would receive $13,799 in subsidies. I do not believe the subsidy calculator (in the link) is properly calculating the income limits for families. It is showing the same limits for single people when I try it now. I believe for a family of 4 the income level that no longer qualifies for subsidy would be $98,400 (400% of poverty level – the poverty level would be $24,600 according to that link). But I may be wrong about this?

* The subsidy is calculated using the average silver plan costs (this results in a $ subsidy amount for you – based on your income and the silver plan costs in your area). But you can select whatever plan you want. So if you selected a bronze plan it could be your subsidy percentage is higher, or you could select a gold plan and your subsidy percentage would be lower. The subsidy values will differ in the state depending on what health plans are available specifically in your location.

As you can see the subsidy is based on the hardship the health care premiums would place on the individual. If you have a fairly low cost plan and earn $48,200 your subsidy will be low. Since the costs are largely based on age (smokers also face an increased cost) this means that the subsidy increases a great deal as the costs skyrocket for those aged 50 to 64 (at 65 you can qualify for medicare and escape the huge costs of health insurance at that age.

I think many people would be surprised at how high your income can be and yet you still qualify for a subsidy, especially if you are a family.

The subsidy levels for those with very high health insurance costs (especially those over 50 years old, or with a family) are very large. If you are close to the subsidy cutoff level the costs of going over can be huge, costing you $5,000 or even over $10,000 just by making an extra $100.

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Cheap Internet Data Options for Travelers and Nomads in the USA

The video from the excellent CheapRVliving YouTube channel provides excellent information on getting internet coverage while you travel the USA. USA internet coverage is often very expensive, but this provides some good sources for those looking to have coverage but avoid paying the highest prices.

[The video was removed from YouTube]

Some of the suggestions from the video:

  • Verizon unlimited 3g mobile hotspot – (sure it is a slower but he streams Netflix, YouTube, Amazon Prime etc. without problems even using a Amazon Fire stick for his TV). Link is to device on ebay using his recommended seller glselectronics). Cost for the Flashed Novatel MIFI 4510L is $60 and the data is $5/month.
  • T-mobile via 4gantennashop. In the video he says he pays $18 a month (I don’t see that offer on the website but…). He says it is 5Gb plan but with BingeOn and Music Freedom (so Netflix, YouTube, etc. are not counted against your data use). He mentions that the network is congested sometimes.
  • Sprint via 4gcommunity. I have read plenty of great reviews on this and also hassles about getting signed up. You must buy a device from them (so it costs a total of $250 for the first year) and then pay annually for membership ($168 a year).
  • Another Sprint Network option using the same bandwidth (it is part of a deal struck with the government when Sprint bought Clearwire) is Calyx ($500 which gets you a hotspot also, and $400 in future years). Both Sprint options provide 4G coverage where available (in general Sprint’s network is good in very populated areas but not good elsewhere). Both are effectively unlimited as they have no cap and no speed reduction (though pushing it too far may result in issues from Sprint and if too many did so may result in issues for the entire program – essentially Sprint using abuses to get the government to rescind the agreement that provides us this affordable option).
  • AT&T via FreedomPop (he suggests buying via slickdeals). This can be as cheap as $1 for a sim card and then you can take various measures to get 1Gb free every month for each sim card. So you can buy multiple sim cards to have more coverage. This is the cheapest option but there are plenty of people that complain about having to deal with Freedom Pop. It can be a decent free option but realize you may have to spend time dealing with hassles of using this service. However using it as a backup to have a AT&T signal could be useful (I don’t think I would bother with multiple sim cards – you have to track your usage switch sims…). You can’t use your phone as a hotspot for free (you can pay to add that option).

He pays about $35 for his combination of plans using the networks of T-mobile, Verizon, AT&T, Sprint.

Related: Making Money as a Nomad in the USAVanlife in the USAWiring a Thermometer to Your Van to Turn on AC as Needed as You Sleep

Personal Finance Considerations for Going into Debt for Education

I think taking on debt for education is a sensible financial decision. But the level of the debt that is sensible must be considered.

When I went to college (too long ago) it was expensive, but not nearly as expensive as it is now (in the USA at least – I am not as familiar with the costs outside the USA other than knowing in many places that university education costs are very reasonable).

I don’t have any hard cutoff where I think taking on debt no longer makes sense. But I do think I would include cost as a major factor when deciding what college to attend if I were facing that decision today. From a personal finance perspective I would only consider my debt or the spending of my savings.

If my parents or the school or someone else want to pay for a large portion of the the costs that is wonderful. I do believe the expensive and highly rated schools provide a great education and great benefit. If I were a parent that was well off I would have no problem paying the very high costs if I could afford it (which would mean I was far ahead on reaching financial independence).

photo of building at Davidson College

Davidson College

The costs of college in the USA are so huge now that it may well be wiser to find a less expensive school in order to create the best personal financial base as a young adult.

The huge costs also mean I think it is much more important to take into account the likely financial picture after one graduates. It is much different to go into debt for a engineering or math degree than one with much lower expected salaries (Engineering Graduates Earned a Return on Their Investment In Education of 21%).

As I wrote on my other blog: In the USA More Education is Highly Correlated with More Wealth.

As I have said before the reason to chose a career is because that is the work you love, but in choosing between several possible careers it may be sensible to consider the likely economic results. And in choosing how much to spend on your education considering your future earnings is wise.

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Proof of Onward Travel

One of the annoying worries is the possibility of an airline asking for “proof of onward travel” before checking you into your flight. Airlines do this theoretically because they may be liable for getting you back out of the country. Airlines also check that you have a visa for the new country for this reason (which also confirms you have a passport).

It makes sense that they check that you have a passport with a visa for the destination. Still you could be rejected from entering even with the visa. If that happened I don’t see what good it would do to have a plan reservation in 50 days going somewhere. I suppose the country might push the responsibility for getting you out of the country to your departing airline but I seriously doubt it. If you claim you can pay to leave I would have to imagine if some other party gets stuck with the bill it is likely the airline that delivered you.

photo of Air Asia airplane at Yogyakarta, Indonesia airport

Air Asia airplane at Yogyakarta, Indonesia airport

I suppose it could also be the airline only gets stuck if you don’t have proof of onward travel. And if you have that proof they are still responsible for getting you back but someone else pays until someone can collect the money from you (and gets stuck with it if you never pay). This seems pretty unlikely for most “normal” travelers from rich countries that have credit cards which would just be billed for whatever cost there is.

It sure seems to me that credit cards should add a perk to “gold cards” (or even less fancy card types) that promise to bill whatever costs accrue due to you being forced out of the country to you (and just like other costs the credit card issuer is stuck paying the cost if you don’t pay them back).

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Use FI/RE to Create a Better Life Not To Build a Nest Egg as Quickly as Possible

To me FI/RE is about creating conditions that allow you to focus on what you value. Some people do focus too much on saving money quickly as though the goal is to save as much as quickly as possible. But that isn’t what FI/RE means. FI/RE doesn’t mean make yourself a slave to saving quickly in order to remove yourself from being a slave to a job until you are 65.

Any concept can be misapplied. Two posts on related ideas:

The aim should be the best life, not work v. life balance

I achieved my goal by not my aim. That happens a lot, we honestly translate aims to goals. And then we do stupid things in the name of the goal get it the way of the aim. We forget the aim sometimes and put the goal in its place.” Mike Tveite

FI/RE should be about figuring out what you value and examining the tradeoffs between working, spending and what you really want to get out of life. For some people getting a large investment portfolio quickly is more important than time off, taking expensive vacations, having a job they really like… For some they are happy to have a job they really like even though it pays less and it will take 8 more years to reach FI and be able to retire. FIRE is a process to examine what you value and really think about savings versus spending (largely important because of all the emphasis in our culture to spend and worry about the consequences of debt you took out to spend later).

If you turn FI/RE into an accelerated treadmill of working and not living that isn’t of much value in my opinion (it does have a little bit of value in that you are likely to reach a point where you are free but this is not a good path). You should think about tradeoffs of what you value (healthy living, family, learning, fun…) and what short term versus long term tradeoffs you make. You don’t have to go to the extremes some people do in order to adopt FI/RE principles and create a better life for yourself.

For some people the tradeoffs for achieving financial independence and the ability to retire at 40 are worth great sacrifices up until 40. That is fine if that is what they want. Others would rather make choices from 25 to 40 (lower paying jobs, splurging occasionally…) that mean they won’t reach financial independence until 48. That is also fine.

To me what is most important about FI/RE is examining the choices you make and taking control of the decisions instead of just floating along as so many people do without considering the choices they make. Frankly, doing that and deciding to not even retire early is fine with me (though I do agree it is a bit at odds with the name). Essentially what I mean is even in that case you can apply FI/RE principles, you just do it is a way that make it FI/RR. Where you Retire Realistically instead of as the majority of people do today don’t even come close to adequately considering and planning for their retirement (even at 65 or 70).

Related: ACA Healthcare Subsidy – Why Earning $100 More Could Cost You $5,000 or MoreGetting Started Early on FI/REUSA Retirement Savings Contributions Tax Credit

Insurance as a Digital Entrepreneur

Insurance is one of the important aspects entrepreneurs, even sole proprietors, must include in their business plans.

Insurance for freelancers
If you are starting a small business or simply going it alone, make sure you have insurance that will cover the unexpected. Many freelancers starting out believe their insurance needs are similar to those of any other individual, but there are business considerations that influence what kind of insurance freelancers should choose. It is important to be covered in case of lawsuits and unforeseen circumstances that could arise related to your business. You may need insurance in addition to the regular home, health and auto insurance that everyone needs (assuming you have an auto).

Indemnity and Liability Insurance
Indemnity insurance is a fundamental starting point for any business, including freelancers. Indemnity is also known as personal liability insurance and it provides protection cover in the case of lawsuits by clients and customers who allege negligence through error or omission. This is an example of how a simple mistake, even merely an alleged one, can land you in court and cost you a lot of money. Indemnity insurance covers cases brought in civil court but not a criminal court and operates on a similar principle to malpractice insurance. Even minor errors can end in lawsuits and can begin with a simple accusation of false claims or an allegation of misleading advice given by you as a consultant.

You may be familiar with liability insurance from your auto or home or rental coverage. Liability insurance could provide financial protection if someone is injured on your premises. If you feel you need guidance concerning whether liability insurance is for you, speak to local insurance agents if you have questions.

This coverage can often be purchase from the same company you purchased you homeowners insurance from. Often when you purchase multiple types of insurance from the same company you will get a discount. Still it is always wise to get several quotes from different insurers.

Check Your Existing Insurance Coverage
You may feel that your home, auto, and life insurance policy that you have now is sufficient to cover your needs as a freelancer. However, it is worth double checking whether your existing policies are sufficient if you change your situation (for example, open a side business or become a digital nomad). For instance, you may feel comfortable that your home office is covered, but make sure that all the contents of your office space are insured. If you use your car for driving clients around and marketing, make sure these work activities are covered under your current auto insurance plan.

Your life insurance policy, whether it is 10, 20 or 30 years, should reflect your income as a freelancer. If your income fluctuates, talk to an insurance agent about what kind of life insurance is right for you. As a freelancer, you should make sure you have your own health and dental insurance, and you may decide on plans designed especially for freelancers. In addition, disability insurance is a very important and often overlooked type of coverage.

Media Insurance
You may never have heard of media insurance, but it is becoming more popular in an environment in which a few bad reviews on social media can seriously harm a business. This type of insurance can protect you in defamation and libel suits which can involve expensive legal fees.

As you branch out with your career and decide to freelance, keep in mind that not only are your finances taxes different, but your insurance needs will change as well. Consult with an agent concerning the best insurance solutions for you and your family.

6 Tips To Help You Achieve A Better Retirement

Many people are already planning on working for a longer time because they don’t have enough money for retirement. Those reading the blog and focused on taking a different approach from the common one (either FI/RE or digital nomad or something else) already understand the traditional mindset of working hard and buying what you want (even if you go into debt) is more and more difficult. Some specifics of this post use terms that make sense in the USA (like IRA) but the ideas are universal.

The economy is no longer as robust after the financial crisis in 2007. While the recession is over, the cost of living has gone up. What’s more, there aren’t as many options to earn a high income unless you work in the technology sector. There is so much competition for even high skill jobs that it’s easy for employers to pay less than they used to in the past.

Those focused on FI/RE do consider retirement (obviously) but digital nomads for all the other ways I think this lifestyle is appealing often don’t consider the long term at all. And this is a serious problem.

For traditional employees and digital nomad and other freelance type employees one of the biggest challenges with planning for retirement is not the economy. While the economy certainly is a significant factor, it’s not the only one. You also have to take a look at your money management skills. There may be many ways that you are paying too much and saving too little. If this is the case, then it’s vital that you learn new ways of making your money go farther.

recliners and palm trees on the beach

Photo by John Hunter in Langkawi, Malaysia. Prepare so you can retire to this, or even combine FI/RE and digital nomad ideas and work here (with lower expenses) while working toward retirement.

With that in mind, here are 6 ways to save your dreams of retiring at age 65 or even earlier.

  1. Are You Adding to Your Retirement Savings With Each Paycheck?
    Direct some of your paycheck to a 401(k) or IRA and you will soon be above average in preparing for your retirement.
    One of my favorite tips to nearly painlessly greatly improve your retirement life is to put some of every raise you get toward retirement savings. For example, if you get a new job (or a raise) that gives you an extra $5,000 a year in income set aside $2,000 into a retirement account (every year). As you get further raises do the same thing.
  2. Where are you spending your money?
    You may have more control of your money than you think. Take a look at your recurring expenses. Can you spend less on cable? Cable companies make millions because of the fascination people have for entertainment. Is it possible that you could spend the same amount of time sitting in front of the TV doing something else — like starting a new hobby that will be more personally enriching?
  3. Do you need to upgrade your car, phone, TV, laptop so often?
    In the past, buying a car every three years made fiscal sense because you would save on repair costs. However, cars are now made much better and will run well for many years. By buying a car less often and looking after it better, you could save tens of thousands of dollars because every time you drive a new car off the lot, it depreciates in value. Computers used to become painful to use (as the new software took advantage of and thus required the big gains made in hardware to work well – this is much less true today). This money could go toward your retirement.
  4. Do you have money leaks?
    It doesn’t take much to spend money on small inconsequential things. An evening with friends, a latte when you’re tired, an extra few boxes of your favorite snacks when grocery shopping… all these things can add up quickly. You can also save thousands every year by skipping the convenience of eating out and learning how to cook nutritious meals at home. While it isn’t necessary to become a tightwad overnight, wincing when things are a few dollars above your comfort level, increasing your awareness of how you’re spending your money will help you realize that many of the things you buy aren’t giving you that much satisfaction in the first place.
  5. Do you use your credit card almost reflexively?
    Paying with your credit card is convenient, but you do have to remember that even if you keep up with your monthly balance, you are still paying more for the things you bought because you’re being charged interest, perhaps even high interest. Since it’s so easy to whip out a credit card then to carry cash or try to figure out if you have enough money to use your debit card to make a purchase, it’s only too easy to buy more things than you intended. I pay for nearly everything that I don’t buy online in cash.
  6. Do you postpone money management?
    Since you are busy most of the time, it’s easy to shrug off the basics of money management—keeping a budget, living within the budget, and saving a little every month. You use excuses like promising yourself that you’ll start your retirement savings when you earn a little more or pay off your credit cards. Unfortunately, life doesn’t stop long enough to give you enough time to plan everything perfectly. Even if you have started to budget, are you sticking with it? And if you have stashed away some cash, are you now looking for ways to keep that money active?

Changing Habits is Challenging
While these six ideas are easy enough to grasp and won’t require any financial wizardry to put into action, the challenge is breaking bad habits and replacing them with good ones. It’s uncomfortable, of course, but if you do, it will be rewarding in the long run. The earlier you get started, the better your retirement options will be.